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Ferrata Lipella - Tofana di Rozes
This is a long and physically demanding itinerary that leads to the large and beautiful Tofana di Rozes summit up a series of ledges.
The route works its way through the NW Face of the Tofana di Rozes up a long, winding ascent of alternating steep steps and ledges. At the fork (2680m), near the ‘Tre dita’, continue along the ledge to the right (Rifugio Giussani is reached by walking left), then continue up numerous steps and a tiring ramp to reach the smaller peak (3027m), where the ferrata ends. Follow the track to the summit and the cross.
Descent: the descent follows the same route as the ascent as far as the pre-peak, then follow the normal path to the right (NE). Follow the blue markers across ledges and scree down to Rifugio Giussani. From Rifugio Giussani follow path no. 403 back to Rifugio Dibona.
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| Ferrata |
| Difficulty: technically medium, physically though this route is demanding |
Height difference: 600 m
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| Huts: Rifugio Dibona (start), Rifugio Giussani (finish) |
| Time: 7.30 hours (start and finish at Rifugio Dibona) |
| Gear: normal equipment for vie ferrate. Take crampons and ice axe at the start of the season or after heavy snowfalls. |
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Ferrata Giuseppe Olivieri - Punta Anna (2731m)
This beautiful and immensely satisfying ascent, almost entirely equipped with cables, is recommended for experts only. The ferrata can be extended by combining it with others close by, including the ascent of the Tofana di Mezzo.
The steep and exposed ascent follows a line through the east face, then briefly onto the SW Face, before continuing on Punta Anna’s steep southern arête. Airy sections up extremely solid rock lead in about 1 hour to the beneath Punta Anna (2731m).
Continue up the crest towards the Terza Torre Pomedes, to reach the Doss de Tofana and then the summit of Tofana di Mezzo along the Via Ferrata Gianni Aglio. Alternatively, follow the path towards the Ra Valles cable car station and then turn off right down Sentiero Giuseppe Olivieri
Descent: from the Doss di Tofana follow the path towards the Ra Valles cable car station and then turn off right down Sentiero Giuseppe Olivieri. Equipped in the steepest sections, this leads swiftly to Rif. Pomedes.
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| Ferrata |
Difficulty: difficult
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| Height difference: 440m of ferrata to the Doss de Tofana |
Huts: Rif. Duca d'Aosta, Rif. Pomedes.
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| Time: 4.00 hours (start and finish at Rif. Duca D'Aosta) |
Gear: normal equipment for vie ferrate
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Ferrata Gianni Aglio (Tofana di Mezzo 3244m)
The ferrata leads up the highest of the three Tofane. When joined to the Giuseppe Olivieri ferrata at Punta Anna it makes up a long and difficult, but highly satisfying traverse for the well-trained.
The starting point, unless coming from the G. Olivieri Ferrata or the Sentiero attrezzato G. Olivieri, is the middle station of the Ra Valles cable car. From here, ignore signs for the “Olivieri” and Punta Anna, and ascend (SW) along the marked path to the Doss de Tofana, where the ferrata begins (2900m).
After some steps and a vertical drop, equipped with a ladder, the itinerary leads onto the SW face and along ledges to the Torre Gianni Aglio gorge. Use the fixed cables to traverse the east face of the Torre (difficult and exposed). After another airy traverse on the north face, reach the large Bus de Tofane “window” at 2920m up steps and rubble.
Continue up slopes (at times snowy) and, after a ramp with avalanche barriers and two vertical drops equipped with ladders, follow the marked rocky path to the cross at the summit. Descend quickly to the refuge and cable car station Cima Tofana. From here it is possible to continue along the mid-grade Ferrata Formenton to the saddle between the second and third Tofana and then on to the summit of Tofana di Dentro (or Terza - 3238m – 1.30 hours).
Descent: by cable car or along the line of ascent.
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| Ferrata |
Difficulty: difficile
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Height difference: 330m from Doss de Tofana
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Huts: Rif. Duca d'Aosta, Rif. Pomedes.
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Time: 3.00 hours from Ra Valles
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Gear: normal equipment for vie ferrate
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