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Vie ferrate in the Dolomites
Ferrata Gianni Aglio
The ferrata leads up the highest of the three Tofane. When joined to the Giuseppe Olivieri ferrata at Punta Anna (see related itinerary) it makes up a long and difficult, but highly satisfying traverse for the well-trained. Even though the route is made easier by the cable car which leads to the summit, because of its height and the possibility of bad weather it shouldn’t be taken lightly. Click photo for portfolio
Getting there
From Cortina take the “Freccia nel Cielo” cable car as far as the second station of Rif. Ra Valles.
Access
The starting point, unless coming from the G. Olivieri Ferrata or the Sentiero attrezzato G. Olivieri, is the middle station of the Ra Valles cable car. From here, ignore signs for the “Olivieri” and Punta Anna, and ascend (SW) along the marked path to the Doss de Tofana, where the ferrata begins (2900m).
Ascent
From the Doss de Tofana, after some steps and a vertical drop, equipped with a ladder, the itinerary leads onto the SW face and along ledges to the Torre Gianni Aglio gorge. Use the fixed cables to traverse the east face of the Torre (difficult and exposed, keep rope tight). After another airy traverse on the north face, reach the large Bus de Tofane “window” at 2920m up steps and rubble. It is possible to descend the scree slope from here to path no. 403, which links to Rifugio Giussani and Rifugio Dibona. For the summit, however, continue up slopes (at times snowy) and, after a ramp with avalanche barriers and two vertical drops equipped with ladders, follow the marked rocky path to the cross at the summit.
Descent
Descend to the Rifugio Cima Tofana and the cable car station.
N.B. the last descent is at 16.00!
Bibliography e maps Via Ferratas of the Italian Dolomites: Vol 1
by John Smith and Graham Fletcher
Cicerone Press 2002
Period From June to October, depending on snow conditions.
Popularity high
Beauty
Difficulty
Difficult
Not particularly difficult except on the exposed Torre Aglio traverse. The descent in the cable car considerably reduces the general effort required. Be careful at the beginning of the season as there may be still be snow and ice along the route.