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Vie ferrate in the Dolomites
Ferrata Giovanni Lipella
The ‘Lipella’ at the Tofana di Rozes is an unmissable ferrata for the keen mountaineer. A splendid journey into the heart of the Dolomites and a trip into history where the most tragic and memorable events of the First World War took place. The length of this ferrata makes it tough. Equipped in the most difficult parts, it picks out weak points of the south west face where it follows a lengthy route up stepped terrain and scree-covered ledges, up to the 3225 meter peak. Click photo for portfolio
Getting there
From Cortina take the road towards Passo Falzarego. Near a little church after Pocol, a signed track leads off to the right. Turn left at the next fork and continue to Rifugio Dibona.
Access
From the Rifugio Ivano Dibona take path no. 404 and traverse beneath the imposing Tofana di Rozes to equipped steps that lead up to the Castelletto tunnel.
Ascent
This ferrata is reached through the characteristic ‘Galleria del Castelletto’ (2740m). Ascend this tunnel, dug out by the Alpini soldiers during the First World War (height gain 120m - length 500m – torch necessary). The route then continues on the W/NW Face of the Tofana di Rozes up a long, winding ascent of alternating steep steps and ledges. At the fork (2680m), near the ‘Tre dita’, continue along the ledge to the right (Rifugio Giussani is reached by walking left), then continue up numerous steps and a tiring ramp to reach the smaller peak (3027m), where the ferrata ends. Follow the track to the summit and the cross.
Descent
The descent follows the same route as the ascent as far as the pre-peak, then follow the normal path to the right (NE). Follow the blue markers across ledges and scree down to Rifugio Giussani. This descent requires particular care when snow is present. From Rifugio Giussani follow path no. 403 back to Rifugio Dibona.
Bibliography e maps Via Ferratas of the Italian Dolomites: Vol 1
by John Smith and Graham Fletcher
Cicerone Press 2002
Period From June to October, depending on snow conditions.
Popularity high
Beauty
Difficulty
Medium
Long itinerary that requires a high level of fitness. At the beginning of the season the higher parts of the ascent route and the descent are covered in snow. Attention should also be paid to falling stones, dislodged by other mountaineers or by the thaw.
Gear
Normal via ferrata kit. At the beginning of the season, or in case of recent snowfall, appropriate snow gear should be taken. A torch is necessary for the Castelletto tunnel.
Mountain huts - Rifugi
