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Vie ferrate in the Dolomites
Ferrata Marino Bianchi
This short but panoramic itinerary follows the crest which, at 3000m, runs from Forcella Staunies to the summit of Cristallo di Mezzo. Equipped with cables and ladders, the highly popular “Marino Bianchi” is ascended and descended along the same line. Click photo for portfolio
Getting there
From Cortina take the SS 48 towards Passo Tre Croci to Capanna Rio Gere and park at the start of the Sonforca chairlift (1698m), located beneath Mt. Cristallo.
Access
Take the chairlift to Rif. Sonforca and continue in gondolas to Forcella Staunies (2919m). From the top of the lift walk to Rif. Guido Lorenzi (2932m), from where the first cables mark the start of the ferrata.
Ascent
The first cables lead up to the NE crest to then traverse beneath the Cima Nord. It then descends slightly to a narrow gully to a col which acts as the watershed between two steep gullys. The environment is harsh and attention is required as snow and ice may be found here due to the altitude and direction. Ascend once more, up ladders past two vertical walls and a series of ledges, to arrive at the ferrata’s hardest section: a smooth overhanging crack, about 10m in length. Once past this tiring crux section, which demands a careful ascent up the fixed cables, continue more easily along the crest. Level at first, the path finishes up stepped terrain to beneath the summit cairn and the panoramic Cristallo di Mezzo (3163).
Descent
Descend along the line of ascent back down to Rifugio Guido Lorenzi.
Bibliography e maps Via Ferratas of the Italian Dolomites: Vol 1
by John Smith and Graham Fletcher
Cicerone Press 2002
Period From the end of May to October, depending on snow conditions.
Popularity high
Beauty
Difficulty
Medium
The “Marino Bianchi” is a highly popular, classic mid-grade ferrata. Due care and attention is required as snow and ice may still be found even in mid-summer given the altitude and direction it faces. Care is also required when encountering other groups since the line of descent is the same as for the ascent.
Gear
Normal via ferrata kit. Take winter gear at the start of the season.
Mountain huts - Rifugi
