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Vie ferrate in the Dolomites
Sentiero attrezzato De Luca - Innerkofler
Monte Paterno is an excellent observation point for the impressive north faces of the Tre Cime, symbol of alpinism not only in the Dolomites but all over the world. The view from the ‘De Luca - Innerkofler’ via ferrata is exceptional as it leads first along the north west crest and east face to Monte Paterno’s Forcella dei Camosci to then finish on its 2744m summit. This fairly straightforward route leads through First World War tunnels and is best combined with the descent along the Sentiero delle Forcelle on the mountain’s east crest.
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Getting there
From Cortina follow the road to Misurina via Passo Tre Croci. Then take the Tre Cime toll road up to Rifugio Auronzo (2298m).
Access
From Rifugio Auronzo take the path that leads easily beneath the south faces of the Tre Cime, first to Rifugio Lavaredo and Forcella Lavaredo and then to Rifugio Locatelli (1.30 hours). The Innerlofler ferrata starts just above this.
Ascent
After the small, sausage-shaped tower which marks the start of the ferrata, enter a long tunnel, poorly lit by few windows. It climbs past steeper sections equipped with ladders and exits onto the east face at 2520 m. A vertical wall equipped with a fixed cable then leads to a ramp up towards Forcella di Camosci (2650m) and on to the Ferrata delle Forcelle. To reach the summit descend a short gully (south), and climb back up to a wall equipped with cables. Some effort is required to ascend this to terraces diagonally up to the left. The last easy stepped terrain leads to the summit cross directly opposite the outstanding north faces of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo.
Descent
From the summit descend back to Forcella dei Camosci and descend via the ascent route or head south down the narrow path to the base of the wall. Alternatively, for a complete traverse of the mountain, take the via ferrata Delle Forcelle which leads up and down a series of ledges using ladders and bridges, along the eastern crest of Monte Paterno down to the path at the base. From here return to Rifugio Pian di Cengia or take path no. 104 which links Rif. Locatelli and Rif. Auronzo.
Bibliography e maps Via Ferratas of the Italian Dolomites: Vol 1
by John Smith and Graham Fletcher
Cicerone Press 2002
Period From June to October depending on snow conditions.
Popularity high
Beauty
Difficulty
Easy
Not very difficult. If combined with the descent of the Ferrata delle Forcelle as far as both physical effort and landscape are concerned it is a varied and complete traverse. Given its popularity, watch out for falling stones in the higher sections. A torch is necessary in the tunnel.
Gear
Normal via ferrata equipment. Headtorch for tunnel.
Mountain huts - Rifugi
