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Vie ferrate in the Dolomites
Ferrata Giuseppe Olivieri
This ascent, almost entirely equipped with cables, follows the steep southern aręte up Punta Anna, the large outcrop that looks onto the Tofana di Mezzo. Without a doubt one of the most interesting and beautiful via ferrata in the Dolomites, its steepness, exposure and beauty render it immensely satisfying, and the view onto the imposing south face of the Tofana di Rozes is unforgettable. The ferrata can be extended by combining it with others close by, including the ascent of the Tofana di Mezzo. Click photo for portfolio
Getting there
By car: from Cortina take the road towards Passo Falzarego. Near a little church after Pocol, a signed track (signposted Rifugio Dibona) leads off to the right. Turn left at the next fork and continue to Rifugio Dibona.
By chairlift: from Cortina take the road towards Passo Falzarego. Just outside Cortina turn right following signs for restaurant Pietofana. From here take the chairlift first to Rifugio Duca d’Aosta and then to Rifugio Pomedes.
Access
From Rifugio Dibona take path no.421 to Rifugio Pomedes. From Rifugio Pomedes follow the signposted path away from the top of the chairlift to the scree slope and then leftwards to the start of the ferrata beneath the east face of Punta Anna.
Ascent
The steep and exposed ascent follows a line through the east face, then briefly onto the SW Face, before continuing on Punta Anna’s steep southern aręte. Airy sections up extremely solid rock lead in about 1 hour to the beneath Punta Anna (2731m). From here there are two options. Either 1) follow the equipped ledges leftwards (signposted Giussani) to the scree slope that leads down from Bus de Tofana and enjoy the scree run down to path no. 403. This links Rif. Giussani to Rif. Dibona and leads gently back down to the starting point – recommended). Or 2) continue up the crest towards the Terza Torre Pomedes, via cables and easy slabs, to reach the Doss de Tofana and the descent path. Alternatively, continue from the Doss de Tofana to the summit of Tofana di Mezzo along the Via Ferrata Gianni Aglio.
Descent
1) Descent along the Bus de Tofana scree slope: reach path no. 403 and descend to Rif. Dibona. Continue along path no. 421 to Rif. Pomedes if the starting point was at restaurant Pietofana.
2) Descent from the Doss di Tofana: follow the path towards the Ra Valles cable car station and then turn off right down Sentiero Giuseppe Olivieri. Equipped in the steepest sections, this leads swiftly to Rif. Pomedes.
Bibliography e maps Via Ferratas of the Italian Dolomites: Vol 1
by John Smith and Graham Fletcher
Cicerone Press 2002
Mountain huts - Rifugi
