Via Ferrata Via della Pace

Difficulty
Medium
Time
8 h 30 min
Start
Capanna Alpina
Arrival
Capanna Alpina

Via della Pace is a long route that crosses the south-west face of Furcia Rossa. This itinerary, of notable interest and in some parts immersed in a wild setting, with sections calling for considerable climbing skill, follows the walkways and emplacements used by the Austrian troops during the First World War. A short via ferrata, with steps and cables, makes it possible to reach Furcia Rossa III, one of the points of the Furcia Rossa chain that looks towards the Italian First World War positions on the Tofane, separated by the rift created by Valle Travenanzes.

Starting from the Capanna Alpina in Armentarola, take track n° 11 which leads you across Plan de Furcia, then climbing up to Col de Lòcia at 2069 m. Continue towards the Tadega Pass (2,157 m) and then descend towards the small Alpe Fanes Grande lake, about 2 hours away from the starting-point. Then turn right onto track n° 17 and go uphill to Vallon del Fosso, from where, near a spring, you can follow the signs for the ferrata. After about two hours and a short descent, you will reach the start of the via ferrata.

The ferrata begins following a wide ledge with a traverse under black, overhanging rocks, moving to the right. Then you continue by climbing up towards a notch in the ridge between the second and third peaks of Furcia Rossa. The track proceeds on the western face, and after completing some vertical, exposed sections with steps and fixed cables, you reach the scree slopes under the summit of the third Furcia Rossa peak. Then a final brief, steep track brings you up to the top, where you can still see the remains of the Austrian emplacements.

At the top of Furcia Rossa you will find the classic summit cross and an unusual bench made using the wheels of an artillery piece from the First World War. The view that opens up in front of you is incomparable, because you can see not only the majestic Tofane mountains, but also the more distant peaks of the Dolomites range.

To go back down, head south-west towards the saddle between the third and fourth peaks of Furcia Rossa until you reach the vertical wall that will accompany you during your descent. Using ladders and pegs, descend until you reach the scree slopes of the Vallon Bianco valley. From here, continue in south-west direction and go back to the bivouac Bivacco della Pace at 2,676 m, take track n° 17 and return to the Armentarola Capanna Alpina.

Notes

This long circuit in a remote setting calls for a lot of experience and advanced climbing skills, in addition to excellent physical condition, considering the climb’s total duration.

Rest points

Bivacco Della Pace, Capanna Alpina

Equipment

The via ferrata equipment: helmet, harness, appropriate climbing gloves and the via ferrata kit.

Info

Altitude
2760 m
Positive elevation gain
1450 m
Negative elevation gain
1450 m