Via Ferrata Cesco Tomaselli parete SO

Difficultyvery difficult Time3 hours - total 5.30

The ‘Tomaselli’ takes an exposed but almost entirely equipped line up the SW face of the Punta Fanes Sud, the first tower on the Cresta di Fanes. Although this ferrata is not excessively long it is reputed to be one of the hardest and most beautiful in the Dolomites. The Cime di Fanes are also of historical interest as they were the scene of bitter First World War trench warfare. These aspects render the ‘Tomaselli’ one of the most worthwhile via ferrata in the Dolomites.From Cortina d’Ampezzo drive to Passo Falzarego (SS 48) and then take the Funivia del Lagazuoi cable car to the Lagazuoi refuge. Alternatively, reach the refuge by walking along path no. 402-401 (2 hrs - 630m height gain). From Rif. Lagazuoi descend rapidly to Forcella del Lagazuoi and continue down the Armentarola piste to meet up with path no. 20b. Follow this and traverse beneath the NW crest of Lagazuoi Grande and then ascend to Forcella Granda to reach the Bivacco Della Chiesa, located near the start of the ferrata. The famous traverse leftwards, situated just after the start of the Tomaselli, has always been reputed to be a valid test. In other words, a good (and in general much used) testing ground to indicate the hiker’s level of ability for the harder vie ferrate to come. Immediately after the vertical start, and after having crossed the polished horizontal traverse (equipped with twin-cables) beneath the overhang, the itinerary continues through vertical exposed walls to the central section of the face. From here move left following the track to a fork, then continue up the right-hand vertical walls (the cables on the left lead to Alta Val di Fanes). At a terrace, reached with the help of a cable, continue up a series of steep walls that lead to the crest. From this after the final obstacle, a vertical crack-lined slab, continue easily to the summit (2980m). Descend fixed cables along the easier, but initially steep, route down the NE face. Once at the Selletta Fanis (2830m - 0,30) continue down the scree slope to reach Forcella Gasser de Pot, from where path no. 20b leads to Forcella Travenanzes (this time following its SW side to enjoy the shade throughout the descent). Path no. 401 then leads to the starting point at Passo Falzarego. Alternatively, ascend to Rif. Lagazuoi to then descend to Passo Falzarego by cable car.

REST STOPS

Lagazuoi mountain hut, Bivacco Gianni Dalla Chiesa 

  • Gear: Normal via ferrata kit.
Notes: This is a demanding Via Ferrata. The brief initial traverse and the vertical wall leading to the summit crest contain sections that are good indicators of the hiker’s ability.
  • 500 m Change in elevation
  • From June to October, depending on snow conditions Time of the year

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