Ferrata degli Alleghesi

Difficultyvery difficult Time6-8 hours (uphill and downhill)

FERRATA DEGLI ALLEGHESI (CIVETTA)

The ferrata degli Alleghesi is an itinerary in wonderful surroundings for experienced excursionists-mountaineers allowing you to reach the summit of the Civetta at an altitude of 3218 m. The itinerary develops along the eastern side till it reaches the north-east ridge which is climbed all the way to the summit. All together it is a very difficult itinerary physically with a remarkable total length and vertical height gain. Technically speaking the itinerary is not extreme but it requires experience to exposure and control in moving on this type of terrain. Some sections, even if easy, are not equipped and need to be climbed.

From rifugio Coldai (2132 m) climb up towards the Coldai saddle and detour to the left along Tivan path n. 557. Follow the path with up and down sections till you reach the saddle of Schinal del Bech at an altitude of roughly 2300 m from where you leave the path climbing up to the right (boulder with red sign Alleghesi). Once you go by the scree and a few equipped rocky sections you reach the base of the ferrata (1 hour and 30 minutes roughly from the hut). Overcome immediately a steep section equipped with steps to then enter a sequence of gullies and short steep steps which lead roughly half way up the spur of Punta Civetta. From here first of all along a ridge and then again along chimneys and gullies exit onto the northern ridge at an altitude of roughly 2800 m. The itinerary now develops discontinuously along an areal and northern ridge with equipped sections and easier sections where you can walk along a path which is always marked. So you reach Punta Tissi first of all and then Civetta’s summit. Descent: from the summit, head south-east following the red marks and along steep scree slopes to reach the rifugio Torroni situated at 2984 m. From the hut descend along the steep and equipped path n.558 leaving on the right the path which leads to the Tissi ferrata along leaning slabs, ledges and steep rock steps equipped with metal cables. Reach the final scree slope and from here a junction allows you to descend directly to Pecol. To the left instead you reach the Tivan path and to the north follow it again, as for the approach path, with tiring up and down sections, as far as the rifugio Coldai.

  • Gear: ferrata gear. At the beginning of summer an ice axe and crampons may come in useful
  • Rest stops: refuges
  • Civetta Dolomite Group
  • Civetta Summit
  • 1100 m Change in elevation
  • access to the Alleghesi’s ferrata is possible from both sides of the Civetta, Alleghe or Palafavera, following the sign for Rifugio Coldai Start