Vie Ferrate - Pelmo - Normal way

Difficultyvery difficult Time8-10 hours

This is a splendid yet challenging itinerary, which allows you to reach one of the most beautiful and important peaks in the Dolomites. From the top there is an incredible view of the Civetta group, from Moiazza and the surrounding valleys. The route is long and at many times exposed, it requires an ability to walk on delicate surfaces with gravel and rocks and on exposed ledges with several tracts that are grade I and II climbs. From the lodge rifugio Venezia (1947 m) you begin along the trail marked n. 480 in a north-westerly direction on a bumpy route that then becomes gravelly. At one of the first junctions you leave the trail that continues on towards la Forcella di Val d'Arcia and you climb towards the left in the direction of the rocks. You follow a tract marked out with old red tags that allows you to get up an initial leap and thus reach the base of the ledge called di Ball. Now you walk along the ledge in a southerly direction on a flat and then slightly uphill route traced along the remnants of a path. You cross three canals that carve across the trail. In the final canal there is the famous Passo del Gatto (Cat’s Passage), considered the elemental passage in the climb. This is a tract where you will have to crawl to get over an outcrop (grade II, there is a nail and some old rope). After this point the ledge becomes more accessible although it remains exposed and it leads to the lower edge of the huge load of detritus that lies between the two shoulders of the Pelmo. You climb the canyon in zigzag to the base of a rocky range. The route continues back and forth over some large steppes until it gets to the superior big top of the Vant. Now you go up in a westward direction to the crest. From here on a route exposed to the Southwest you get to the top. The descent takes place along the same route that came up.

  • Gear: normal via-ferrata kit, rope.
  • Rest stops: Refuge Venezia (1947 m)
Warnings: long and difficult itinerary. Good shape and technique are requested.
Notes: long and difficult itinerary. Good shape and technique are requested.
  • Pelmo Dolomite Group
  • Pelmo Summit
  • 1200 m from Rifugio Venezia Vertical gain
  • gravel track, rocks and ledges, be careful to some climbing areas (I° and II°) Ground
  • Cima del Pelmo Finish