Bèco d’Ajàl

The crag is located to the north of Croda da Lago in a superb panoramic position with views over Cortina and the surrounding mountains, from Tofane right across to Antelao. Bèco d’Ajàl is a large tower, a rock tooth visible even from the centre of Cortina, surrounded by other smaller pinnacles that comprise the sport climbing area. This site is at a height of 1,750 metres, with walls having different orientations and exposure. Temperatures here are fairly low, and for this reason it is ideal for the summer period (June-September). After prolonged rain, the walls tend to stay wet for several days.

The wall consists of three large blocks at heights varying from 60 to 80 metres; the rock is yellow and black, compact cliff dolomite with pockets and holds, and the walls are in large part overhanging, with fairly high grades of difficulty. There are about fifty routes, bolted by Cortina’s Scoiattoli Group, with grades from 6a to 8c, lengths from 20 to 40 metres, and a climbing style based principally on endurance. Points of protection, considering the fairly high level of difficulty and the overhanging walls, are rather widely-spaced, but they are always safe. 

It was on this wall that in 2003 the first 8c route in Cortina, named Schiaffo, was redpointed by Luca Zardini (“Canón”), a climber in the Scoiattoli Group.

Approach: From Cortina, drive towards Giau Pass - Falzarego Pass, and at the hamlet Pocol, after passing Hotel Argentina, turn off onto the SP638 road towards the Giau Pass. After about 1.5 km, just before the Malga Peziè de Parù mountain hut, park on the left and take the mule track that leads to the Val di Formin valley. Follow this track for a few hundred metres, and straight after the bridge, turn left, following the sign for the crag. After a short level stretch, the path begins climbing towards the right, running through a forest of firs, until, after about thirty minutes, you reach a flat clearing where the vegetation is sparser and you get a glimpse of the first boulders. From here, take the track on the right towards the boulders, and after 5 minutes you will reach the crag.

Rest points

Malga Peziè de Parù, la Baita Il Cervo e il bar-ristorante dell’Hotel Argentina