Via Ferrata Marino Bianchi

Difficulty
For experts
Time
5 h
Start
Rifugio Son Forca
Arrival
Rifugio Son Forca

Via Ferrata for experts that will take you to the summit of the Cristallo di Mezzo, where the characteristic cairn will confirm the conquest of one of Cortina's most characteristic peaks over 3000 metres. The magnificent view at the summit is of the Conca Ampezzana on one side and the magnificent Valle di Landro valley on the other. The itinerary develops on the Cristallo, to the east of the Ampezzo Valley.

To reach the start of the via ferrata from Cortina head towards Passo Tre Croci to Rio Gere; there you will find a large car park where you can leave your car. Take the chairlift from Rio Gere to Son Forca, where you will find the homonymous refuge with an incredible view.

From Son Forca, take the steep path that will take you up the long, steep scree slope to Forcella Staunies: this journey along the scree slope takes about two hours, for 900 metres of altitude difference, and is quite demanding. Once you reach the pass, behind the historic Rifugio Lorenzi (closed), you will find the first fixed ropes and the start of the route.

In order to reach the summit of the Cristallo di Mezzo, you will be faced with a via ferrata at high altitude and often on the ridge; given the altitude of the route, pay attention to the snow and ice that you may find along the way.

The route begins with passages along the ridge with some uphill and then downhill sections to reach the pass between Cima Nord and Cima Centrale. You then continue uphill where you will find some ladders that will allow you to overcome some vertical walls. Here, the most difficult passage of the via ferrata stands out next: a smooth, overhanging fissured gully. Once this impassable section has been overcome, there is the last part of the itinerary, which runs along the ridge and leads to the summit and the traditional cairn of the Cristallo di Mezzo summit at 3154 m. 

The view in front of you repays the effort.


For the descent, retrace the same route as on the outward journey.

Rest points

Rifugio Son Forca

Info

Altitude
3154 m
Positive elevation gain
1000 m
Negative elevation gain
1000 m