Via Ferrata Giovanni Lipella

Difficulty
Medium
Time
6 - compl. 8 h

The ‘Lipella’ at the Tofana di Rozes is an unmissable ferrata for the keen mountaineer. A splendid journey into the heart of the Dolomites and a trip into history where the most tragic and memorable events of the First World War took place. The length of this ferrata makes it tough. Equipped in the most difficult parts, it picks out weak points of the south west face where it follows a lengthy route up stepped terrain and scree-covered ledges, up to the 3225 meter peak. From Cortina take the road towards Passo Falzarego. Near a little church after Pocol, a signed track leads off to the right. Turn left at the next fork and continue to Rifugio Dibona. From the Rifugio Angelo Dibona take path no. 404 and traverse beneath the imposing Tofana di Rozes to equipped steps that lead up to the Castelletto tunnel. This ferrata is reached through the characteristic ‘Galleria del Castelletto’ (2740m). Ascend this tunnel, dug out by the Alpini soldiers during the First World War (height gain 120m - length 500m – torch necessary). The route then continues on the W/NW Face of the Tofana di Rozes up a long, winding ascent of alternating steep steps and ledges. At the fork (2680m), near the ‘Tre dita’, continue along the ledge to the right (Rifugio Giussani is reached by walking left), then continue up numerous steps and a tiring ramp to reach the smaller peak (3027m), where the ferrata ends. Follow the track to the summit and the cross. The descent follows the same route as the ascent as far as the pre-peak, then follow the normal path to the right (NE). Follow the blue markers across ledges and scree down to Rifugio Giussani. This descent requires particular care when snow is present. From Rifugio Giussani follow path no. 403 back to Rifugio Dibona.

REST STOPS

Angelo Dibona Mountain Hut, Camillo Giussani Mountain Hut

Notes

Long itinerary that requires a high level of fitness. At the beginning of the season the higher parts of the ascent route and the descent are covered in snow

Equipment

Normal via ferrata kit. At the beginning of the season, or in case of recent snowfall, appropriate snow gear should be taken. A torch is necessary for the Castelletto tunnel.

Info

Top
Tofana
Altitude
3.225 mt
Positive elevation gain
990 mt
Negative elevation gain
990 mt
Best time
From June to October, depending on snow conditions.